Academics want pragmatic approach over border row
Bangkok Post, 09 August 2010

Critiques suggested Thailand seeks other pragmatic and less patriotically blinded approach by proposing to the World Heritage Committee the connected cultural heritage of the Preah Vihear era that situated in the Thai territory instead of trying to renounce the MoU signed in the year 2000 with Cambodia.

Morakot Jewachinda Meyer, Srinakharinwirot University’s history lecturer, said politicization with blinded nationalism of the Preah Vihear Temple issue would do no good for Thailand.

“In light of the spirit of regionalism that is being forged under the banner of Asean, should we follow the European Union lesson of turning national heritage into common European heritage to mutually reap cross-border economic and cultural prosperity like what Germany and Poland, for example, have been doing,” said Ms Morakot at a Thammasat University seminar this afternoon.

On July 2, 2004, the UNESCO inscribed the Muskau park on the World Heritage List, as an exemplary example of cross-border cultural collaboration between Poland and Germany. The English-garden-styled Park covers 3.5 square kilometres of land in Poland and 2.1 in Germany.

“Could we see this happen in Asean? Asean has so far no clear position to upgrade national heritage into a regional project of cross-cultural collaboration,” said Ms Morakot.

UNESCO Director-General concerned by possible dispersion of objects from 10th century sunken ship in Indonesia
UNESCOPRESS, 06 May 2010

UNESCO chief concerned by auction of ancient artifacts
Jakarta Post, 06 May 2010

The Director-General of UNESCO, Irina Bokova, expressed concern about negotiations to sell a large number of artefacts salvaged from the wreck of a 10th century ship lying off the coast of Java (Indonesia). The sale of the cargo by the Indonesian government was originally set for today 5 May in Jakarta but it was postponed for lack of a buyer.

“It would be unfortunate to allow heritage of such historical and archaeological value to be scattered, thereby depriving both scientists and the general public of access to an exceptional collection. Exploiting an archaeological site and dispersing its artefacts is an irreversible process. Yet the contents of the shipwreck found off the coast of the city of Cirebon have much to tell us about cultural and commercial exchanges in the region at that time,” said Ms Bokova. “UNESCO, through its 2001 Convention on the Protection of the Underwater Cultural Heritage, urges States to safeguard sunken heritage and to make it available for scientific study and public enjoyment. We therefore encourage the Indonesian government to make every effort to ensure that thorough scientific examination of the site is carried out and the artefacts are presented in museums. Evidently UNESCO stands ready to lend its expertise in museology and conservation to the Indonesian authorities.”

Located by a private exploration company in 2004 off the coast of Cirebon in northern Java, the ship is thought to have foundered in the 10th century as it sailed to Java from Sumatra. More than 270,000 artefacts (Chinese ceramics, religious objects, jewellery, gold coins, pottery etc) were salvaged from the wreck, giving the discovery exceptional historical value. In 2007, a mission of experts from UNESCO visited the site where the finds are stored. The experts underlined their historical importance and the need to conserve them in suitable conditions. They offered to help the Indonesian government preserve the artefacts, which are particularly fragile when they are brought out of the water.

The Convention on the Protection of the Underwater Cultural Heritage, adopted by UNESCO in 2001, entered into force in January 2009. It aims to ensure better protection of underwater wrecks and ruins. The treaty represents the international community’s response to the increase in looting and destruction of underwater cultural heritage, which technological progress has placed within the reach of treasure hunters.

The Convention is based on four principles: the obligation to preserve underwater cultural heritage; in situ preservation, i.e. underwater, as a preferred option; no commercial exploitation of artefacts; and cooperation by States on protecting this heritage, promoting training in underwater archaeology and raising public awareness. The Convention’s Annex contains practical rules concerning activities directed at underwater cultural heritage.

The Convention currently numbers 31 States Parties. UNESCO hopes that Indonesia will ratify the Convention and offers its assistance to facilitate the process.

photo credit: click-the-shutter

New concrete Batanes houses ‘with doors’
Philippine Inquirer Lifestyle, 12 April 2010

Because the ancient door-less houses with low open windows that could also serve as entrance are considered ‘poor man’s house,’ locals are constructing ugly concrete houses with doors.

…

“They are door-less houses with low open windows that could also serve as entrance. He said that a ‘door-less house is a poor man’s house.’ Unless one gets ‘security of job,’ he cannot leave his poverty. That is why when an Ivatan leaves his family to work abroad, he will be determined to save so that when he comes home, he could construct a new house with a door.”

And that’s what is happening now in Savidug. Prosperous Ivatans have come home to construct a ‘new house with a door.’”

Ivan Henares writes: “For those who are not familiar with Batanes heritage, the villages of Savidug and Chavayan on Sabtang Island are the two most intact villages of vernacular Ivatan architecture, showcases of the Sinadumparan and Maytuab styles of houses.

“These new hollow-block houses being constructed will most definitely destroy the unique architectural fabric of Savidug.”

Over $1.2 million to preserve Thang Long Royal Citadel
Vietnam Net Bridge, 26 February 2010

The Hanoi authorities have approved a $1.2 million project to preserve the Thang Long royal citadel in Hanoi, funded by the UNESCO.

This project will be carried out by the Centre for Conservation of Co Loa Relic and Hanoi Ancient Citadel.

From January 2010 to January 2013, the project will research and evaluate the values of this site and suggest measures to preserve the site.

Residents decline funding to save ancient homes
Saigon Giai Phong, 05 Jan 2010

Despite an offer by the People’s Committee of Thua Thien-Hue Province to provide financial assistance to owners of ancient homes for refurbishment efforts, most have declined the help.

The houses, known as nha ruong, are built with artfully carved wooden pillars and bars in the former feudal capital of Hue in the central region. The residences have great cultural significance but are in danger of falling into disrepair and decay if renovations are not carried out.

The local government has offered funding for the upkeep of the ancient homes totaling VND100 million(US$5,400) each to homeowners for renovations and five-year loans of up to VND30 million to plant trees outside the houses.

Residents complain, however, that the actual cost of restoring the houses is much higher than the government subsidies. Due to strict regulations regarding the manner in which renovations are to be carried out on ancient homes, the owners say they would have to pay large sums out of their own pockets.

Cambodia to register 12th century temple as World Heritage Site
Xinhua, 09 August 2009

Experts say World Heritage listing for Banteay Chmar will take years
Phnom Penh Post, 11 August 2009

THE listing of Banteay Chmar temple as a UN World Heritage Site will take at least two to three years, say government officials and scholars who met at a conference on the issue in Sisophon over the weekend.

Banteay Chmar is one of Cambodia’s most neglected but most spectacular temple sites. There is a concerted effort to help the site win a coveted World Heritage listing, but the process will not be easy, and there are many hurdles to overcome, officials said.

Currently, not even the preliminary submission of an application for a listing to the National Commission for UNESCO in Phnom Penh has been completed.

Hue Citadel visit is beyond means of many Vietnamese
Vietnam Net Bridge, 22 July 2009

Dung works on a stock breeding farm in Nghe An province. His wife is a farmer. Their two children are still in school. “Uncle Ho taught that Vietnamese people must know about Vietnam’s history,” he told us. “Our life has been tough, that’s OK, but my children need to know about Vietnam’s history. Understanding our history is knowing about our culture and origin. Here we are, my daughter and I, standing on the ground of our ancient capital, and in front of a world cultural heritage site. If my daughter fails the exams, she will return home to do farm work and get married. That’s all! Perhaps she will not ever have another chance to visit the royal citadel. I’m determined to get her to see the ancient royal palace, even if I have to borrow money to return home.”

Bayon TV raises $300,000 for PVihear
Phnom Penh Post, 09 July 2009

Cambodians pledged about US$300,000 to the conservation of Preah Vihear temple on Tuesday, the one-year anniversary of its inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage site, said Tith Thavarith, executive director of the Bayon television station.

“We have only collected about 10 percent of the total so far, and the donors kept calling into our station on July 7, so we cannot say exactly how much we raised,” he said.

Tith Thavarith said all the money would go directly into the conservation of Preah Vihear temple but that details of the project needed to be discussed with Hun Mana, president of Bayon TV.

Cambodia marks anniversary of temple’s world heritage listing
AFP, 07 July 2009

Pride party for Preah Vihear
Phnom Penh Post, 06 July 2009

Border troops break bread
Phnom Penh Post, 06 July 2009

Penang stays on Unesco list
AP, via Straits Times, 01 July 2009

Malacca and George Town stay on Heritage list
The Sun, 29 June 2009

Cambodians on Tuesday noisily celebrated the first anniversary of the UN’s world heritage listing of an ancient temple which has stoked nationalist tensions with neighbouring Thailand.

Posters of the 11th century Preah Vihear temple were plastered in pagodas, schools and prominent locations around the capital Phnom Penh while celebrators screamed, “Long Live Preah Vihear temple as a World Heritage Site!”

“As Cambodian people, we are very proud of Preah Vihear temple. We must celebrate this day, it is historic for us,” Phnom Penh governor Kep Chuktema said after a traditional dance ceremony at a pagoda in front of 1,000 people.

Waving colourful Cambodian flags, Buddhist monks, nuns, students and teachers gathered at pagodas and schools nationwide and promptly beat drums and rang bells at 11:00 am (0400 GMT) to herald the listing, officials said.

“I am very happy and proud of Preah Vihear temple. The temple belongs to Cambodia. Thailand has no right to claim it,” said student Hang Dalune as at another event as hundreds of people sang and danced to nationalist songs, waving Cambodian flags.

But first, a little history… Ayutthaya’s a little island sitting at the confluence of the Chao Praya, Lopburi and Pasak rivers that became the second capital of the Siamese kingdom (the first was Sukhothai, another World Heritage Site) and was founded in 1350, where it became the seat of the Siamese kingdom until 1767, where, after a series of battles with the Burmese, it was sacked and razed. Despite the total destruction of the royal city, people eventually repopulated the area. Some of the ancient structures were restored during the reign on Rama IV (King Mongkut, who reigned from 1851-1868), and in 1991 the ancient ruins of Ayutthaya was inscribed as a World Heritage Site.

Ayutthaya from the sky. Numbers refer to places mentioned in this post.

Today Ayutthaya is a popular tourist destination, and an easy day trip from Bangkok where it’s possible to take a train, bus or boat up. The eastern side of the island is now dominated with modern buildings, shophouses and guesthouses mostly, while most of the city’s ruins lie on the western side of the island, along with several sites dotted along the “mainland”. In this post, I’ll cover the royal administrative centre Wat Phra Sisanpetch, the residence of the Buddhist leaders Wat Maha That, Wat Ratchaburana and the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum.

Wat Maha That [1]

At the centre of a Buddhist kingdom is the temple, and in Ayutthaya, the most sacred temple is Wat Maha That, which was built in 1367 during the reign of the second king, Ramesuan and was also the royal monastery. As you can see, the temple compound was razed by the Burmese in 1767, and the large mound at the back is all that remains of the principal pagoda (prang) which only collapsed a hundred years ago. Excavations in the collapsed central pagoda unearthed a seven-layered reliquary containing the relics of the Buddha, which is now housed in the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum. This temple is also famous for the picturesque Buddha head enclosed within the roots of a tree.

Wat Maha That, the most important temple in Ayutthaya. The central collapsed at the start of the last century.

Wat Phra Sisanpetch [2]

The administrative centre of Ayutthaya, Wat Phra Sisanpetch (sometimes known as Sisanphet) was established from the very start of the Ayutthaya capital, and continued expanding with new buildings until the beginning of the 16th century. Dominating the wat’s landscape is the very familiar row of chedis. The ruins of the surrounding buildings include remnants of throne halls, royal residences and administrative offices.

Wat Phra Sisanpetch, with its distinctive three chedis

Wat Ratchaburana [3]

One of the most intact massive prangs left among the ruins is Wat Ratchaburana, north of Wat Maha That. This Khmer-style prang carries a interesting but tragic story behind its construction in 1424. Following the death of King Intha Ratcha, his two sons battled for the through – leaving both dead. A third son, Chao Sam Phraya subsequently ascended to the throne and built Wat Ratchaburana in memory if his father and brothers. Atop the main prang, the Fine Arts Department has built a narrow (and rather scary staircase) that leads down into the vault 12 metres inside the heart of the structure. The interior of the vault it covered with murals, still unrestored. The gold ornaments stored inside these vaults were looted by robbers, although some of them were recovered and are now displayed in the Chao Sam Phraya Museum.

The Khmer-style Wat Ratchaburana.

At the top of the pagoda is an ominous-looking stairs leading to a deep, dark chamber.

At the bottom of the stairs is a small vault that once housed gold artefacts. The vault is covered with Buddhist murals, still unrestored.

Chao Sam Phraya National Museum [4]

Obviously not an ancient structure, the Chao Sm Phraya National Museum houses many of the artifacts found in Ayutthaya, including many of the Buddha heads that were lopped off by the invading Burmese during the final fall of the capital. Unfortunately, no photography is allowed inside the museum but it’s well worth the visit; besides the ancient statuary, there are two rooms featuring the Buddha relic artefacts found in Wat Maha That, as well as the gold treasures from the vault of Wat Ratchanaburana. It’s no wonder that modern looters have tried to excavate deep within the pagodas for a shot at the vault treasures. At Wat Rachaburana, thieves did, resulting in damage to some of the more fragile gold ornaments. Fortunately, it seems that the bulk of the relics were recovered from the thieves and are now displayed at the museum.

The Chao Sam Phraya Museum contains the artefacts excavated from Ayutthaya.

... like some of the Buddha heads that are seen missing throughout the historical park.

Practical info for visiting:
These are some of the major sites to be found at the Ayutthaya Historical Park, but there are many more ruins on, as well as off the island worth paying a visit to. Remains of the old fort can still be found in the capital, as well as the old foreign missions – Ayutthaya was called the Venice of the East in part due to its central trading role in Southeast Asia.

Most tour agencies conduct day trips to Ayutthaya from Bangkok, but you can just as easily take a train up to Ayutthaya from Bangkok’s Hualamphong Railway Station (which is what I did) – either way, the journey is about an hour and a half. The train station is east of the island [5], and a short ferry ride from the pier [6] takes you into the main island itself. The modern buildings are on the east side of the island, while most of the major monuments are concentrated on the west. I recommend renting a bike and exploring the island on your own, and to spend a couple days there if you want to catch everything.

Ferry across to Autthaya from the train station

I did manage to take quite a few good pictures in Ayutthaya and I might do a wallpaper thing with them, like what I did with Angkor. Look out for them in the near future.